Tag Archives: tomatoe seeds

Tomatoes or Not Tomatoes? That is the Question!

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This winter, I didn’t heat my greenhouse so I’m sitting here thinking, should I start tomato plants from seed this year, or not? Sometimes I start seeding some as early as March in the growing trays. But March requires some heat in the greenhouse. Some tomato seeds however may be started in April. Waiting until April reduces my need for any heat or maybe that is when I will start up the heater again just to keep it warm enough. Usually, I start my seeds on heat mats inside my greenhouse too – and that is fine up until the germination starts and they get larger. Once they germinate, I need to keep the heat consistent inside the greenhouse as best as possible or avoid freezing of course!

The first big question is which last spring frost date to use? I always use May 12th here at my location, in Connecticut. That is a good guide. However, last year, we had a slight frost a couple days later. Not a biggie because usually May 12th is when I would be hardening off (transitioning the plants in and out for about a week or so to acclimate them from indoor growing to the outdoor environment). They wouldn’t actually be planted immediately after the 12th. They are put outdoors and returned indoors for a week or so, and I watch the weather forecasts or use my weather app on my iPhone to keep an eye on the expected temperatures. Usually, I plant them outdoors on Memorial Day.

I have also thought about if I should just buy some plants and grow them inside the greenhouse this year, test that out. I always grow my plants outdoors in container gardens but inside the greenhouse, they would receive protection from wild animals. However, the animals only show up when they see bright red tomatoes, so putting them outside in planters is fine up until you harvest later in the summer. And plants do grow better outdoors with the fresh air and sunshine (and natural insect predators). A greenhouse would need venting and lots of watering if it got hot, etc.

Cherokee starting to change colors.

It’s ironic that after I perfected my whole tomato growing process for years, I am adjusting it to a new routine of seeding and timings. That is the way of growing plants, learning plants, experiencing plants – it always, always changes each year. It seems for me anyhow. Experimenting can be part of the fun or part of the headaches too. This year, I’d like to save a bit of money. It is not too expensive to start seeds but keeping them growing as you pot up and such does require some good quality soil mix and tasks to monitor and water, etc.

Yummy – This is the photo that will motivate me!

For years, I grew many heirlooms and other interesting tomato plants. Some of my favorites have been Oxheart Tomatoes (huge, 3 lbs), Goldie (heirloom so flavorful and pretty yellow), Cherokee Purple (self-explanatory!), Bumble Bee or Fox Cherry Tomatoes (prolific and delicious)! The list goes on.

The thing is Oxhearts may be started anywhere from 6-10 weeks before the expected (or estimated) spring last frost date, which I noted above, I go with May 12th each year. 10 weeks before the frost date is early March, but you can wait till 6 weeks before. Anyhow, probably what I will do is stick with the varieties I can start 4 to 6 weeks before the frost date. Some are Paul Robeson tomato, Honey Drop Cherry (another unbelievable sweet as honey cherry tomato), Mikado (heirloom). Or maybe I’ll be lazy this year, and just go buy some!

Sowing Seeds

Many people start their tomato seeds in early April (6-week mark). You sow and grow them and then once May 12th comes around, carefully watch the weather. They are not planted out until Memorial Day (safe in the ground or in pots usually). Also, May 12th happens to be Mother’s Day this year, so write on Mother’s Day that is your expected last spring frost date. Then look at your seed packet and see where it says how many weeks before the frost date to start the seed in seed trays. Each type of tomatoe is different for the “weeks before” to start them. If you start too early, the seedling plants may get too large, if you start too late, they won’t be ready to fruit in time in the summer. So just look at the packet on when to start sowing your seeds.

Goldie Tomato Above

Another thing – is cost of all the materials. From seed starting mixes to and mixes to pot the seedlings up to and all of that. I do have all the trays and plastic pots in stock but the mixes and such costs extra (rather than just buying some from a local nursery). However, I would miss out on the fun of growing them from seed and utilizing my greenhouse. So, the debate continues in my mind for now.

My tomato jungle

I also like to grow basil. Basil is started two to four weeks before my last spring frost date. Basil is kind of a must if you are growing tomatoes! But they do need warmth and do not like cold temps, thus the greenhouse heating thing again comes up. And of course, it should be warmer two to four weeks before our frost date, mid-April ish. Decisions Decisions.

Baby Seedlings

One of the things that usually drives my decision is looking at all the wonderful tomato photos which are already starting up in Facebook feeds – oh gosh, a homegrown yummy tomato is the BEST! I actually can’t eat tomatoes as much due to a health issue – seems my body is not liking them as much (acidity). Maybe I ate too many but my husband, Steve, loves tomatoes, so if anything, I grow them for him and also because I love plants all around on my deck, including creating a tomato jungle. And I love making sauces or apps with tomatoes.

Well, there is still time to ponder all – but it is not a bad time to look at the calendar and my planning charts to remind me of timing. I just wrote down May 12th on my calendar to remind me that is my last spring frost date estimate, and I also counted back to 6-8 weeks before to make a notation to start seeds if I decide to do so. At a minimum, I have glanced over all and now may ponder this some more.

Have a nice weekend,

Cathy Testa
Container Crazy CT Blog
Broad Brook/East Windsor, CT
Zone 6b

Date of this post: 1/26/2024

Growing Tomatoes Sucks

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Ha! Ha! April Fools!

Growing tomatoes definitely does NOT suck. It is one of the most rewarding aspects of summer container gardening!

I’m in the early stages of seed sowing this year, and here are some photos to share with basic tips, with all kidding aside! 🙂

Pre-Moisten

Tip No. 1 – Pre-moisten the seedling mix

I use a clear bowl and pour a small bag of “seedling” mix into it and then add water from my watering can. Using a clean and sterilized small scoop or utensil, gently stir the mix. It is best if you are able to do this a night before to allow the mix to absorb moisture, but a few hours before is fine as well, but this step is crucial. Allow that mix to take up a bit of moisture so it won’t float out of your seed tray and also the mix sometimes needs to rehydrate before use.

Close Up of the Seedling Mix in a Tray
Make a little hole

Tip No. 2 – Use a clean tool to make a tiny hole

Sometimes I have used a bamboo skewer, or you may just use your hands, I guess, but I prefer to make a tiny hole with a tool and then drop the seed into the hole with tweezers. You have the option of one seed per cell or a few seeds (and separate them later), but I tend to do one per cell in most cases. Again, make sure the tool you use is clean and I avoid reusing them unless they are easily cleaned. What I mean is after one tray, I may toss out that little plastic straw I used or put it in a recycle bin for use other than seed sowing. Be careful not to transmit things from tools. I’m referring to sowing tomato seeds in this post (and some of the hot pepper seeds).

Tip No. 3 – Seeds In Hand

Pour some seed into your hand or a paper cup as you work to drop them into the seedling mix – guess this is not really a tip but I have a good pic of me with some tomato seeds in my hand. Make sure if your hands happen to be wet to not to put an unsown seed back into your seedling packet because you will transfer some moisture from your hand to the seed to the packet. If you don’t use all of the seeds in your seed packet, store the packet in a cool, dark, dry place away from hot sun, temp flux’s, or moisture or damp conditions. And know how long seeds last for whatever you are sowing. Some seeds last 25 years, others last 2 years.

Seeds in Hands
On Seedling Heat Mats and Under Grow Lights

Tip No. 4 – Use a Grow Light

This is the first year I am using a high output energy efficient high bay fixture grow lamp. My trays are in my greenhouse BUT we get lots of cloudy days when I start to sow seeds in my area of Connecticut (usually starting in March thru May). On the cloudy days, I’ve been turning on the light. It hangs over the trays with a pendant chain which I am able to lower and rise the position of the lamp fixture by taking the chain and an S-hook to adjust it. I do not have it on a timer, I turn it on in the mornings on cloudy days, and turn it off by dinner time. It is only needed when the seeds germinate and are showing above the soil. This is a fluorescent lamp style. Tip is to watch it carefully as the seedlings grow so you do not burn the foliage as they grow higher.

Covers – Natural Sun was Hitting them in this photo one morning

Tip No. 5: Use clear covers to help maintain moisture of the seedling mix until they germinate is very much recommended, however, I tend to not do that – because I work from home, I check the trays every day at least twice a day. I look to see if some cells have dry soil (lighter in color, touch top to feel moisture if need be), while others are still are moist. I literally will carefully water only the ones that are dry, so because I am home and a plant addict, I check them often. If I was not home all day, I would be concerned about them getting too dry and go with the clear dome covers instead to help retain moisture during the phase of waiting for the seeds to germinate.

Tip. No. 6 – All same type of seeds in a tray

I made one minor error, I put tomato seeds in the same big tray in several rows and in the same tray, some hot pepper seeds in adjacent rows. Pepper seeds take a lot longer to germinate (3 weeks) because they really like very warm soil and air temperatures, while the tomato seeds germinated in five days! So now I am like, ah, I have to put the tomato side under the light. Next time, I will avoid that scenario. They only need the light when they rise above the soil. Hopefully this is making sense, LOL.

Other General Tips for Sowing Stages:

Don’t sow too early. Don’t sow too late. Know the timing. I’ve discussed in prior posts.
Visit trays twice a day to monitor watering, as noted above unless using dome covers.
Take photos, its fun and it allows you to see adjustment ideas for the next season.
Label seed packets with a Sharpie marker if seeds are still in the packet (I put a dot on the back if I used only some of the seed and a check mark on the back if all seeds were used.)
Record the date sown on the plant label and on a wall calendar or notebook. When the planting season arrives, you will get too busy. Taking notes is important.
Remember that in mid-May (for CT zones), you have to harden off the seedlings outdoors for a while before you actually plant them in patio pots, grow bags, raised gardens, etc.
Watch the weather forecasts.
Target your weeks before based on the expected last spring frost in May (usually mid-May).
Target your planting time when safe to plant outside (usually around Memorial Day, usually).

Types of Lights

I did minimal research on lights to be honest. There are several types of artificial lights for the greenhouse world. You do not need lights when the sun is shining in a greehouse for seedlings of this type, and the heat rises in a greenhouse quickly on sunny days, so you may need the alternate – a fan, or small gentle fan for your trays. Using a light should help the strength of my seedlings this year. As I’ve noted above, for many years, I did not use grow lights at all and I was successful. There are incandescent lights, high intensity discharge lights, fluorescent lights (the type I got), and light emitting diode (LED). All of these I will research when I have time I guess! LOL. Some are more expensive than others and some are hotter than others. Note: Some fluorescent fixtures are not good enough for other types of plants, but they work for seedlings with the right T strength. It is too complicated for me to go into and I’m still just learning about them so not much more I can offer on that for now, but if you do get lights, be sure you consider the placement, how you will adjust the height of them or the trays below. I read someone said they use books to raise the trays, rather than lower the light fixture but I also have a heat mat below. And I don’t want to bring books that may get wet into my greenhouse and keep dampness below the trays. Yes, I’m an*al that way – I over think it. Do research on the lights first if you have never used them, there are lots of neat setups now for indoor home growers. I just read of one that is a small shelving system perfect for apartments with lights already installed, etc. Many options out there.

My Tomato Jungle Last Year (2021)

And tomatoes do not s*ck – I was just kidding – it was a joke. Don’t slap me. Sorry, couldn’t help it.

Have a GREAT weekend!

Cathy Testa
860-977-9473
Container Garden Enthusiast
Zone 6b
Connecticut
Dated: 4/1/2022 April Fool’s Day

Turning on the Lights

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On winter days like today, with soft white fresh snow falling, many of us start daydreaming about the seeds we will sow in a few months, and perhaps start planning out our key sowing dates, as well as ordering various supplies for starting our seeds.

Starting Seeds Indoors

Starting seeds indoors is something I’ve been doing for a few years now for warm season vegetables (tomatoes, hot peppers, and some herbs), and every year, I like to try new varieties or heirlooms. I’ve been successful with using my greenhouse to grow my seeds indoors, along with using appropriate supplies and soil mixes, and providing care (watering, monitoring, etc.) without the use of grow lights, however, this year, I think I’m ready to take the plunge and experiment with supplemental lighting.

Types of Lights

This post will not explain what you need, what type of lights you should get, or any of that, because I will be in the midst of researching and starting with just testing out one system of lights above some trays of seeds in a couple months in my greenhouse, however, I can tell you why I feel I should turn on the lights over my trays of seedlings for the first time this year.

Because it will improve the results – I think…

With a greenhouse, you have lots of advantages, such as space, heat, and “natural” sunlight. However, many winter days are cloudy and cold, with not much sunlight at all in the months of February and March (March is usually about when I start my warm season vegetable seeds). Cloudy days limit growing progress, but it won’t stop progress. I have been able to grow my seedlings fairly well but it does slow things down not having sufficient sunlight every day.

Heating Mats, Nursery Pots, Soil Mixes, and Labels…

I thought, because I’ve invested so much already by investing in using the heat mats for seedling trays and everything else, not to mention the cost to heat a greenhouse, why keep on spending? But, in the world of gardening, you always seem to be getting another item to improve your growing processes. I decided I would purchase one of the fluorescent lights sets to hang over the trays during germination and help the plants once they start to grow. My thought is I will only use the lights when the days are cloudy. On sunny days, I’ll allow the sun to warm up the greenhouse and provide the natural sunlight for the plants.

Seeing Lights in Greenhouses

I remember walking into a very large nursery up north once, and they had lights all hanging above, and thinking, hmmm, they use supplemental lights. From what I’ve been reading, the lights should be placed about 3-6″ above the seedling trays once they germinate, but you have to watch you don’t burn anything when you move them this close to the trays. I will be doing so and monitoring how the plants look. There are signs to pay attention to if the lights are too close, which I will know, because I’m accustom to monitoring plants.

Baskets of Herbs I Grew without Supplemental Lights

Are Lights Needed to Succeed?

Some people will argue that you most definitely need artificial supplemental lights to succeed with growing seedlings indoors, but I’ve always argued that is not 100% true. I’ll let you know what I think after my first season trial with supplemental lights for my seedlings. But, I have done it without supplemental lights for years, so you can do it, but using the lights will improve the seedlings health overall. I’ve used heat mats to help keep the soil warm in the greenhouse, and adding lights may give the seedlings an extra boost. It may take them from normal to champion status. Kind of like training an athlete. Improving each time.

Types of Lights

There are fancier and more modern light options out there beyond the fluorescent types, but I’ve decided I will take baby steps this year. I want simplicity, ease of hanging them, plug in style to an outlet, and give the lights a try. I’ve just ordered the system, and some more nursery pots because I know I’ll go thru them light crazy. Then I decided I need more labels, and the supplies list begins!

Light to Germinate

Most of the seeds I grow require light to germinate (some seeds require darkness), and they need light to grow well once they have germinated in order to grow strongly. Using a greenhouse really helps of course, and/or using the fluorescent lights will improve the results – but if you use both a greenhouse and supplemental lights – it should be awesome, I hope. As long as all other factors are done appropriately along the way, such as using good seedling mix, accurate timing of starting seeds before the frost dates, and monitoring. I usually check my seedlings every day once they germinate.

Plants Produce Their Own Food

Plants use light to produce their own food. If light is not available after they germinate, they are slower growing, they may be stretchy looking from reaching for sunlight, but once natural sunlight is provided on sunny days, if they experienced a day or two of clouds, they tend to rebound very quickly in a greenhouse setting. Plus a greenhouse gets very warm on sunny days! Once I use the new supplemental lights on the cloudy days, I should see them be stronger than ever before. Stay tuned as I share my progress.

Cathy Testa
containercathy at gmail.com
Broad Brook, CT
Zone 6b Area