Tomatoes or Not Tomatoes? That is the Question!

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This winter, I didn’t heat my greenhouse so I’m sitting here thinking, should I start tomato plants from seed this year, or not? Sometimes I start seeding some as early as March in the growing trays. But March requires some heat in the greenhouse. Some tomato seeds however may be started in April. Waiting until April reduces my need for any heat or maybe that is when I will start up the heater again just to keep it warm enough. Usually, I start my seeds on heat mats inside my greenhouse too – and that is fine up until the germination starts and they get larger. Once they germinate, I need to keep the heat consistent inside the greenhouse as best as possible or avoid freezing of course!

The first big question is which last spring frost date to use? I always use May 12th here at my location, in Connecticut. That is a good guide. However, last year, we had a slight frost a couple days later. Not a biggie because usually May 12th is when I would be hardening off (transitioning the plants in and out for about a week or so to acclimate them from indoor growing to the outdoor environment). They wouldn’t actually be planted immediately after the 12th. They are put outdoors and returned indoors for a week or so, and I watch the weather forecasts or use my weather app on my iPhone to keep an eye on the expected temperatures. Usually, I plant them outdoors on Memorial Day.

I have also thought about if I should just buy some plants and grow them inside the greenhouse this year, test that out. I always grow my plants outdoors in container gardens but inside the greenhouse, they would receive protection from wild animals. However, the animals only show up when they see bright red tomatoes, so putting them outside in planters is fine up until you harvest later in the summer. And plants do grow better outdoors with the fresh air and sunshine (and natural insect predators). A greenhouse would need venting and lots of watering if it got hot, etc.

Cherokee starting to change colors.

It’s ironic that after I perfected my whole tomato growing process for years, I am adjusting it to a new routine of seeding and timings. That is the way of growing plants, learning plants, experiencing plants – it always, always changes each year. It seems for me anyhow. Experimenting can be part of the fun or part of the headaches too. This year, I’d like to save a bit of money. It is not too expensive to start seeds but keeping them growing as you pot up and such does require some good quality soil mix and tasks to monitor and water, etc.

Yummy – This is the photo that will motivate me!

For years, I grew many heirlooms and other interesting tomato plants. Some of my favorites have been Oxheart Tomatoes (huge, 3 lbs), Goldie (heirloom so flavorful and pretty yellow), Cherokee Purple (self-explanatory!), Bumble Bee or Fox Cherry Tomatoes (prolific and delicious)! The list goes on.

The thing is Oxhearts may be started anywhere from 6-10 weeks before the expected (or estimated) spring last frost date, which I noted above, I go with May 12th each year. 10 weeks before the frost date is early March, but you can wait till 6 weeks before. Anyhow, probably what I will do is stick with the varieties I can start 4 to 6 weeks before the frost date. Some are Paul Robeson tomato, Honey Drop Cherry (another unbelievable sweet as honey cherry tomato), Mikado (heirloom). Or maybe I’ll be lazy this year, and just go buy some!

Sowing Seeds

Many people start their tomato seeds in early April (6-week mark). You sow and grow them and then once May 12th comes around, carefully watch the weather. They are not planted out until Memorial Day (safe in the ground or in pots usually). Also, May 12th happens to be Mother’s Day this year, so write on Mother’s Day that is your expected last spring frost date. Then look at your seed packet and see where it says how many weeks before the frost date to start the seed in seed trays. Each type of tomatoe is different for the “weeks before” to start them. If you start too early, the seedling plants may get too large, if you start too late, they won’t be ready to fruit in time in the summer. So just look at the packet on when to start sowing your seeds.

Goldie Tomato Above

Another thing – is cost of all the materials. From seed starting mixes to and mixes to pot the seedlings up to and all of that. I do have all the trays and plastic pots in stock but the mixes and such costs extra (rather than just buying some from a local nursery). However, I would miss out on the fun of growing them from seed and utilizing my greenhouse. So, the debate continues in my mind for now.

My tomato jungle

I also like to grow basil. Basil is started two to four weeks before my last spring frost date. Basil is kind of a must if you are growing tomatoes! But they do need warmth and do not like cold temps, thus the greenhouse heating thing again comes up. And of course, it should be warmer two to four weeks before our frost date, mid-April ish. Decisions Decisions.

Baby Seedlings

One of the things that usually drives my decision is looking at all the wonderful tomato photos which are already starting up in Facebook feeds – oh gosh, a homegrown yummy tomato is the BEST! I actually can’t eat tomatoes as much due to a health issue – seems my body is not liking them as much (acidity). Maybe I ate too many but my husband, Steve, loves tomatoes, so if anything, I grow them for him and also because I love plants all around on my deck, including creating a tomato jungle. And I love making sauces or apps with tomatoes.

Well, there is still time to ponder all – but it is not a bad time to look at the calendar and my planning charts to remind me of timing. I just wrote down May 12th on my calendar to remind me that is my last spring frost date estimate, and I also counted back to 6-8 weeks before to make a notation to start seeds if I decide to do so. At a minimum, I have glanced over all and now may ponder this some more.

Have a nice weekend,

Cathy Testa
Container Crazy CT Blog
Broad Brook/East Windsor, CT
Zone 6b

Date of this post: 1/26/2024

Heat and Humidity Great for Tropicals, but Not So Good for Tomatoes!

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This is a big pot at the front of my home exploding right now with tall Canna lilies.

Who doesn’t like Canna lily plants, right?

They are easy to grow, get big and lush, and may be overwintered by storing their rhizomes (tubers), which must be dug up after the tops of the plants are blacked by frost – or just before frost.

Growing them in big pots makes it easier to pull them out by October, thus, why I am going to show the process in early September so you may learn it if desired. (See dates below on that if interested.)

They also thrive in the heat, humidity, and rain, which we are getting all week. None of these weather conditions are harming their attitudes at all – they love it.

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My tomato plants, however, are a different story right now.

They started off great, but a fat chipmunk has damaged some of the lower specimens, and well, that is the ugly side of gardening.

To see a tomato half eaten on the ground is discouraging, but it forces us to shrug our shoulders, cry, or become determined to try a new technique to combat the critters. Because in the end, it is worth it to bite into a fresh, juicy, flavorful home grown tomato.

On top of the chipmunk problem – the foliage on my tomato plants started to look bad just recently. I should share a photo here, but why depress myself more?

I think it is Septoria leaf spot. The leaves developed small, dark spots and it started from the bottom parts, and eventually got on many of the leaves throughout the plant.

This type of problem, the leaf spots, occurs more commonly, from what I’ve read, during heat and humidity, and lack of air circulation contributes to the issue as well.

Yesterday, I took pruners out and cut all the damaged foliage off. It took some time, but I just couldn’t stand looking at the terrible foliage.

Fortunately, it does not affect the tomato fruit. Thank God!

Next year will be a new strategy. That is the name of the game, keep trying, don’t give up.

Mikado Tomato Plants

By the way, in the photo above, that is a Mikado tomato. It is an heirloom and I grew plants from seed in April.

I transplanted them into 15-gallon fabric grow bags around Memorial day (which was the first time trying grow bags – more on that later).

They mature by August – as in now, and are indeterminate (keeps growing taller).

I should have given the plants more air circulation by spacing them out more – next season, they will be put in different places too.

Yesterday, I took that photo (above) of one Mikado tomato that is nearly perfect.

Then, I begged the gardening Gods to not allow it to get attacked by a critter, crack, or whatever. I’m scared to go look this am – as I decided to not quite pick it yet. Being hopeful.

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Of course, tomatoes like sun, warmth, and as much good air flow as can be provided. I think I did well with the sun, warmth, but my mistake was not spacing them out enough. They grew very large and needed more space – so lesson learned.

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Yesterday, while out pruning the nasty damaged foliage from the leaf spot (noted above), I spotted this cluster of tomatoes on another plant, called Stone Ridge (Solanum lycopersicum).

Stone Ridge Tomato Plants

As stated on the seed packet, they are dense, bottom heavy, and have sweet fruit – so true based on my experience so far.

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What I found with this type is the cracking seemed to happen more on the tops (like they are that heavy and dense enough to weigh them down) but no matter, they are freaking delicious – and they are SWEET tasting.

The Stone Ridge tomato plants have weird various shapes to their fruit.

Some are pear-like (above) and some are just goofy and flatter or fatter. I like viewing the stages of them. When you touch them or hold them, they are heavy.

They must be started earlier from seed, which I did in late March.

As far as the tomato plants go, the Fox Cherry Tomato is my absolute favorite. And apparently is for my fat chipmunk freeloader too.

Fox Cherry Tomato Plants

The shape and size are just perfect for skewers, or cutting in half, because they are more like two bite-sized than one-bite sized. They are plump and perfect. And the plants are vigorous growers. Staking, twining, and supports are needed but worth it.

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Every day, I go out and grab many and put them in little farmers market baskets (used for raspberries or strawberries which I saved) and set them on the kitchen island.

And every morning, my husband takes a bag full to eat as snacks at work. That is the most rewarding part of it – how much he loves them.

Usually the heat and humidity is good for tomato plants, but it can help to introduce some problems, such as leaf blights, like the Septoria leaf spot, I believe was the problem on mine this month.

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I won’t let it stop me though – just keep improving the process next year.

In the photo above, there is the Bumble Bee Mix cherry tomato next to the Fox cherry tomato, to compare.

Bumble Bee Mix Cherry Tomato Plants

These are fun to grow as well. The have a unique striped patterns, are mild sweet, and smaller than the Fox variety.

They turn various colors,  either yellow, purple, or just mixed. Sometimes it is hard to know if they are ready, but I still love them.

Both the Fox and Bumble Bee will be on my growing list again in 2019.

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Another plant I grew this year is called, Matchbox Pepper (Capsicum annuum), and I LOVE these for the ease of growing and plant size.

Matchbox Pepper Plants

Why are they so great?

Because they are absolutely perfect for hanging baskets.

The peppers are tiny (and supposed to be spicy but we haven’t tasted one yet – probably will this weekend as they are reddening now), and they are decorative.

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But the fact this plant stays compact makes them just wonderful in hanging baskets.

They, like some of the tomato plants, had to be started early inside. They mature 75 days from transplant. They just started to turn red last week.

Now, I just have to learn how to dry these hot peppers, or make some chili this weekend.

And another bonus about pepper plants is that critters tend to stay away from the hot ones. And the fact the plant is in a hanging basket keeps them up high and potentially away from critters looking for a tasty treat.

Upcoming Workshops

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If you want to learn my process on how I overwinter my tropical plants by storing root bases, tubers, rhizomes, corms, etc, the dates have been published on WORKSHOPSCT.com for early September.

I am scheduling it early so people may prepare ahead of frosts. Sign up is requested for headcount but it is a simple ‘pay at the door’ setup for this session.

I’m in love with the big foliage of the tropical plants (canna, elephants ears, and red banana plants) which, as I noted, is flourishing in this heat, humidity, and rainfall.

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Another bonus about tropical plants is they remain gorgeous all the way into October, and tomatoes for that matter sometimes continue into early October as well.

Well, that’s all for today – I have to get busy again.

I’ll let you know if that juicy Mikado tomato made it – and if yes, it is my lunch today.

Cathy Testa
Container Crazy CT
Location: Broad Brook, CT
www.WORKSHOPSCT.com
860-977-9473
containercathy@gmail.com

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